I will preface this Tek by saying I am in no way an electrician. Because this design uses materials in ways they were never meant to be used and involves 240/120 volt power and water, it is essential to use your best judgment and common sense when building and using this appliance. Also, fresh cut steel is extremely sharp so be very careful and wear gloves ideally. Basically try not to electrocute, burn, slice or otherwise maim yourselves or others if you choose to follow these instructions First and foremost is the drum. I was able to buy a used bio-oil drum from my local 'green' auto repair shop for 20 bucks cash. Notice the Drum has a small and large bung (LOL). The larger bung opening is 2" NPT and the smaller one 3/4" NPT. The larger bung will be used to accommodate a 240 volt screw in water heater element, while the smaller one will have a hose-thread valve for filling and draining. To fit the element into the 2" bung you need to attach fittings to drop the thread down from 2" to 1" (element threads are 1"). There are several ways to do this, the simplest being a 2" pipe nipple with a 2" to 1" reducer coupling. This is the design of my older boiler (pic below) I like this design because it can be used as a water bath as well as a steam pasteurizer because the element is totally recessed in the pipe. My new design has its merits also though. I was able to set the drum down lower by having a shorter nipple, making loading and unloading much easier. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find the 2" to 1" reducing coupler at my local big box so I had to get creative with the fittings. The point of this ramble being these are the fittings I got to house the water heater element: The element: Make sure it is a fold back element and it is the darker matte alloy, far better performance that the shiny metal ones. Get a 240 volt element even if you can only run it on 120 volt. I run mine on a 240 volt dryer outlet, which you will need a cord for if you chose to do so as well: The valve: 3/4" NPT to 3/4" hose thread valve. I like the quarter turn valve instead of the hose spigot type which take a million turns to turn off and on. Was stoked that this one is specifically a boiler valve, used hose ones before. The last fairly specific item on your shopping list is a weber bbq grill grate: It has to be the kind that fit the weber 22.5" charcoal grill, which is the standard waist height UFO looking thing that everybody has rusting in their side yard. So if you can scavenge one and not buy it, more power to ya. OK lets run that list down again and add some more things: -55 gallon steel drum -2" diameter (3" long) galvanized steel pipe nipple -2" coupling -2" x 1 1/2" bushing -1 1/2" x 1" bushing -3/4" valve -240 volt dryer cable -22.5" weber charcoal grill grate *more things you will need* -plumbers tape -electrical tape -four cinder blocks -burlap bag or old beach towel to cover top Tools you will need: -Phillips head screwdriver -Large pipe wrench -Smaller crescent or channel lock wrench -Angle grinder---- most important one, don't know of a better way to cut the top off a barrel. Get extra cutting wheels and a grinding wheel to smooth sharp edges. Ok now that you have everything you need, lets get started. The first thing to deal with is the half gallon of oil still sloshing around in the bottom of this barrel. Find a spot that you don't mind making a mini oil spill (maybe an excuse to try mycoremediaton?) get some biodegradable soap, I like doctor bronners, and pour a cup or so into the barrel. spray inside with a hose till it foams up and dump and rinse several times. you want to do this before you cut so you don't end up with a flaming exploding oil drum from the sparks that the grinder throws. When you are ready to cut, flip the drum upside down so that the bung openings are on the bottom and the bottom is now the top. Put something heavy on top of it to make cutting easier and cut around 3/4" below the lip, all the way around to fully remove the top. Be very careful at this point because the edges are sharp. I cut myself a couple of times doing this. If you have a grinding wheel, go ahead and smooth those sharp edges, It will reduce mycobag casualties later on also. There will probably be a good bit of oil left on the inside, which I cleaned out with more soap and hose. Now flip the barrel cut end down to install all the fittings... ...starting with the nipple (LOL), making sure to plumbers tape all the threads. Next, the coupler: Then the larger bushing: I cranked everything really tight with the pipe wrench at this point... ...add the final smaller bushing, and crank everything down again. Below is the entire assembly snugly tightened. Now here comes the fun part. Grab your element and squeeze the folded part to fit it into the pipe, it may take some finagling. Once you have it in you want to tighten the threads down just until the rubber gasket starts to mush. Do not over tighten the element or it will leak. Last plumbing job is to screw your valve into the smaller bung. Pretty self explanatory. Now lets wire this baby up! I use 240 volt dryer outlet because it is high amperage and can really heat the water quick. Only thing you need to know here is that the middle wire on a dryer cord is the ground wire. If you are using 120 volt this wire is usually color coded green. The other two leads are hot and neutral. You do not need to know which is which because these elements will run the same either way you wire them. So get your phillips head and screw the outside two wires to the terminals. Get the ground wire so it is touching metal and use elecrical tape to secure it. I then wrap the thing up so the wires are secure and none of the terminals are exposed, there is no science to this, just go willy nilly. Now pat yourself on the back because your pretty much done! Flip the barrel back over and set down on two cinder blocks on their side so that the element is elevated. Looking inside: Final assembly: Get your other two cinder blocks and set them on their side in the barrel. set the grill grate on top of that... And Voila! It is complete! Fill it up to an inch or so below the grate, load it up with sub bags and plug it in! It can run for a good 12 hours without burning out the element from lack of water. Also the larger water body means more even heat. I hope y'all got something out of this tek, any questions just holler. Enjoy!