FewTrueSeed Medicinal Cannabis Thread

Discussion in 'Cannabis Grow Logs' started by FewTrueSeed, Oct 13, 2016.

  1. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    The varieties i grew this summer...
    Em Dawg
    20161007_104057-640x360.jpg

    Headband 707
    20161007_103959-600x1067.jpg

    Fire balls / OG kush (aka dog kush) x sour cherry
    20161007_103911-600x1067.jpg

    White Widdow
    20161007_103833-600x1067.jpg

    Deep Blue x Sour Cherry
    20161007_104043-600x1067.jpg
     
  2. Weller

    Weller Student of Nature Moderator Cannabis Doctor Cacti Doctor

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    Nice looking plants. Good to see a male in full bloom too. The females get all the glory but the boys look stunning when flowering too :super:
     
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  3. Essence

    Essence Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking look at all that breeding material lol. :borat:
     
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  4. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    I crossed everything wih that male.
     
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  5. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    Here is the hemp i grew as well.

    Unfortunately i was sloppy with proximity and my hemp males pollinated some of my cannabis tarnishing what would have been seedless bud. Ah well. Wonder what that cross might yield?

    IMG_5648.jpg
     
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  6. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    Sour Banana Chisel

    IMG_5667.jpg
     
  7. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    Left to right: Purple Valley OG, Em Dawg, 707 Headband, White Widdow, Fire balls / OG kush (aka dog kush) x sour cherry

    All heavily laden with seed. Crossed with Deep Blue x Sour Cherry. Plenty of beans for trade.

    IMG_5726.jpg
     
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  8. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    First time FIMing! Pinched em. Pinching vs. Cutting? Opinions?

    Sour Banana Chisel and Sour Orange. - White balanced. Led spectrum is difficult to photograph.


    IMG_5985.jpg

    IMG_5977.jpg
     
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  9. Essence

    Essence Well-Known Member

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    That's quite a background! I could probably part with a few packs of Khione if you're interested.:hatsoff2:
    Khione is an F1 of Rare Dankness's Scott's OG x Original Permafrost clone only cut. Fairly early in development, but already getting rave reviews. :hehehe:
     
  10. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    My attempt at FIMing did not seem to work. What could i have done incorrectly? ill stick to my bending i suppose.
     
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  11. JHorn

    JHorn SlackMaster

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    FIMing seems to affect plants differently from my experience. I have had several that would just throw a few sets with chopped fingers and then back to business as usually. I have also had a few just act like I topped them normally. :shrug2:
    I stick with topping and bending. I always know what she will do.
    Many people don't know this about MJ.... {leans in to whisper} She's a FREAK!!! :spank:She likes it a little rough.
    PC040084.JPG
     
  12. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    Have some stress on my Sour Orange. Too much nutes? Could use some advice. Everyone else seems happy. Spent too much time in veg and its become a very long cycle. Some good seeds will come of this anyway. First time using colloidal silver to make feminized seed. :)

    On that note, i also have a question. I was under the impression that i could spray a flowering plant and have it produce male pollen on applied areas without effecting the flowering cycle on the rest of the plant. Is this true? I would be upset if pollen were to develop outside the confines of the microbags currently containing the applied branches.

    Sour Orange

    IMG_8517.jpg

    Sour Banana Chisel- A particularly short and heavy flowering phenotype. Keeping this clone.

    IMG_8518.jpg

    Purple Valley OG

    IMG_8520.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2017
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  13. Essence

    Essence Well-Known Member

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    I'm still not convinced there is one single cause for that vinyl leaf effect. I think it may be nute or stress related, but at the same time keys in on a genetic susceptibility. It seems to pass on through generations. I have a good example of it with any of my stock bred from Dark Devil Selina Kyle. She was dubbed SK for just that reason.
    Strange how yours came out of the blue like that. We may not be experiencing the same thing. As always, I say look at the roots if you can. To think like a plant you must start where the plant starts lol.

    Your CS question is true for the most part, BUT, sometimes non-treated branches can pop a small cluster of nanners. It usually happens after the primary treated area populates. It can even happen after removal of the treated branch. Keep an eye out under the canopy for late arrivals. They can be picked off before they pollinate. I wouldn't call it common, but it does happen.

    Once you use up your CS I would recommend making your own STS (Silver Thiosulfate Solution). For the price if two or three bottles of CS you can make gallons of STS and it works even better with far less treatments.

    Here's some good copy and paste info originated by Spice Seeds.
    Bear in mind this was posted in 2007. ;)

    How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution
    The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

    This process can be used to:
    A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
    B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
    C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
    D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
    E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
    F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

    At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

    It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.

    "Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke
    (unfortunately missing the appendices)

    It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

    Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.

    post too long, have to split it up lol
     
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  14. Essence

    Essence Well-Known Member

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    Preparation of STS:
    First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

    Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

    Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
    Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

    The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

    The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

    This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

    Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

    Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

    Application:
    The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

    After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

    So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

    A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
     
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  15. Essence

    Essence Well-Known Member

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    Effects:
    Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

    It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

    When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

    When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

    A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

    Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

    This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

    If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

    Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

    Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

    About the chemicals:
    Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

    Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.

    Silver Nitrate info:
    ICSC:NENG1116 International Chemical Safety Cards (WHO/IPCS/ILO) | CDC/NIOSH
    http://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/...%20solution.pdf

    For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:

    Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.

    Sodium Thiosulfate info:
    http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s...hiosulfate.html
    http://www.med-chem.com/MSDS/Sodium_Thiosulf.htm
     
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  16. Essence

    Essence Well-Known Member

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    Where to get the chemicals:

    Photographic chemicals, photo chemistry, photo processing equipment, photo chemicals

    silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10
    http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=27&langID=0

    sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
    http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=28&langID=0

    Postage runs around $4. Fast service. Can be shipped to Canada.

    Have fun experimenting with this technique. Use it responsibly. There are a few good threads here at CW that go into the pros and cons of transsexual agents and feminized seeds. Read them. And most importantly, use STS with quality F1 strains developed by professional breeders for the most consistent results.

    A huge thanks to Fet from Spice Brothers Seeds for his help and advice in using this technique. I simply brought together available information from previous posts and tried my own recipe. I'm thrilled to share the results. Future tests will be done to adjust the formula so the molar ratios of the chemicals are correct, as specified by Gobgoober (thanks, Gob) but the formula posted here is completely effective.
     
  17. Professor PinHead

    Professor PinHead Lost in the Tek.... Administrator Mushroom Doctor Cannabis Doctor Supporter

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    I train my plants literally every day.... a little rough is a mild way to describe it..

    It very similar to being in the marines. I beat those fuckers down everyday.

    The end plant is like night and day trained vs untrained.

    Squeeze bend snap tape back together..... I'm down right abisive to them....
     
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  18. dazed1

    dazed1 Well-Known Member

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    i top my plants and sometimes pinch and bend if i need a couple more weeks of veg. do you pinch in more than 1 spot on an individual branch? do you see an increase in yield or does it just strengthen said branch? thanks for any help
     
  19. FewTrueSeed

    FewTrueSeed Many meiosis Supporter

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    I have always bent and beat up. Topping and pinching is just not my style. Any abuse is sure to strengthen the plant. But too much can hinder growth.


    Thanks for the homework @Essence, I knew i could count on you.
     
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  20. dazed1

    dazed1 Well-Known Member

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    im confined to a certain height because im indoors. im always looking to increase side branching and to make somewhat of a bush. no main cola but 4-8 tops depending on variety of strain and time allowed to veg.
     
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