Need help with Trich

Discussion in 'CONTAMINATION' started by oneeyesun, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    Wussup friends? So I have a pretty bad trich problem. 5 out of 6 tubs have showed dapple spots of trich after 10 days from bulk... Myc was super healthy and fully colonized rather rapidly. Any way to spot treat trich? I decided to toss the tub of course but am trying to back track what went wrong. I have started using a different source of bulk coco blocks but figure that this wasn't the issue but rather maybe needing to increase FAE...? Let me know your thoughts please. I will post pics later due to the fact that i don't trust using pics off of my iPhone. BIG Ups and Much Peace

    ONE EYE
     
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  2. Montana

    Montana Active Member

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    You can try H2O2.
    How are you prepping the sub?
     
  3. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    coco by the brick + verm + gyp steam steep in bucket... Plan on moving to steam pasteurization but this method had been working fine for me previously
     
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  4. GGTBod

    GGTBod One chance at life and this is it so lap it up Administrator Cannabis Doctor Cacti Doctor

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    I fight the trich a lot during cacti seedlings incubation phase when 100% rh, I use a 3% h2o2 solution misted every couple of days as a preventor, if it appears and I missed it then it stamps it back down when applied
     
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  5. redcat

    redcat The Myco Machine Moderator Mushroom Doctor

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    I spot treat Trich first before tossing a tub. Especially if you see pins or the first flush is on the way. I simply peel it off. If its at the corner then i'll remove a huge chunk of the corner. If its in the middle I start tearing at the sub tearing it up NOT pushing it down . It must be a clean tear too. Do it slow and be carefull. Wear rubber glovesa nd tear upward. Your trich will most likely reappear but the goal is to slow it down a bit to get in the next flush. Sometimes tho it never comes back. If the trich is everywhere you should just toss it.

    1 ) Try to get your sub as close to field capacity by hand instead of relying on a recipe. I know its a pain but its worth it. Slow or no colonization can occur from over wet substrate which also invites contamination. All bricks of coir are not equal in size. This affects water content.
    2) Try adding 1 cup of hydrated lime per brick of coir to boost the ph a bit. This may help too. The coirs ph works but isn't the most preferred buy mycelium. This will boost the ph a bit.
     
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  6. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    Thanks for the input G!
     
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  7. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    Awesome input! Thank you RedCat! Yes, I purchased larger bricks this go to reduce my costs. I was chopping them down with a skill saw and instead of getting an exact weight per my recipe, i took a short cut and used the average (500- 680g) with a desired 700g goal.... I filled up a spray bottle with h202 and sprayed last night. I will check here in a few to monitor results. I will def give your suggestions a shot. Thanks again. My only true concern came due to the fact that the myc seemed super healthy and vigorous due to its ability to fully colonize in about 5-7 days. Then by day 10 i noticed the trich. I figured that with healthy myc it would be able to out compete any contaminations issues. Here to learn and learn I do.. Thank you all for your input.
     
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  8. redcat

    redcat The Myco Machine Moderator Mushroom Doctor

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    Do you build your tubs in front of a flow hood ?
     
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  9. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    Definitely NOT
     
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  10. LuckOfTheFryish

    LuckOfTheFryish Moderator Moderator Expert Identifier

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    A flow hood or even a still air box would be a good idea
     
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  11. redcat

    redcat The Myco Machine Moderator Mushroom Doctor

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    When youre making the tubs be sure to cut off all moving air...fans,open windows...or anything that causes a wind.
    If you dont have a still air box the use a small room with no carpets if possible and clean as good as you can. Kitchen...Bathroom. I used to prefer the kitchen before i had a flow hood.
    Spray some lysol in the air to reduce the airborn contams.
    Break up spawn jars the day before you make your tubs. This will speed up the tub colonization.
    Take a shower and wear clean clothes
    Wear a facemask so youre not breathing into your project. Its a constant reminder while its on and you'll adjust if you find yourself breathing too hard or singing ...whistleing ...lol.

    I hope this helps.
     
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  12. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    Always Helpful RC. Thank You. H202 as a spot treat seemed to do something, however I will need more time to monitor definitive results. Looking back, My temps dropped for a period of 3-4 days early on and I am assuming that during the bulk colonization period that this could have greatly increased the likelihood of a trich outbreak... However, given that I have a habit of learning the hard way, time will tell. As for now, I will gratefully digest all of the suggestions and implement into action. Much Peace
     
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  13. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    Sending a huge Thank You to all of the friends who took their time to share their knowledge and lend a helping hand! I was hesitant to remove the trich due to concerns of broadcasting spores throughout the tub. Instead I spot treated with h202 as suggested coupled with a dusting of baking soda to neutralize the trich growth area. This definitely dissolved the trich in that location and created more of a depressed dead zone. However, over the past few days I noticed different areas where the trich would reappear. My first tubs of PE popped a handful of fruit after little to no visible pin set. Those fruits that did appear were damn near stagnant. They have now showed signs of darkening tissue on the cap, I am assuming that this is a sign of abort. Secondly, The following tub that was a few days behind the first and was treated a little earlier on in its developmental stage, has a very uniform and dense pin set. However these PE were looking more like APE due to the fact that there is a uniform white powdery substance on the surface of their tiny caps. I have no idea what it is but I was able to wipe it off with my finger and that exposed a darkened unhealthy dark brownish cap. Any thoughts of what that issue would be??
    I did some more research and have concluded that I was actually creating an environment ideal for trichoderma proliferation. Coco Coir is a soilless media, that being said, when and if there is any bacteria present and in my case, small clumps of damaged grain by means of overcooked BR, gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) will convert the Sulfate into Sulfuric Acid. I conducted a leach test on the substrate and the results were not surprising, with a ph of 3.9. I am surprised that I was even able to get any pin set or fruits to appear. Based on RR's notes I noticed that in regards to casing, ( i do not case and any input in regards to this would be much appreciated) He suggests that misting the casing layer with a hydrated lime solution would help increase the ph of the peat casing mix and help remove an environment favorable for Trich. Has anyone done this? Especially in regards to uncased sub? I was thinking about doing the same and in hopes that the basic solution would then be able to leach down through the substrate and show some benefits. In the future I will definitely be adding Lime while preparing sub as suggested Redcat. Thank you for everyones suggestions and support. I greatly appreciate it and hope to share something more positive progress reports to come.

    Mush Love,

    OES
     
  14. oneeyesun

    oneeyesun Member

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    Long story short...

    FAIL

    Im out. PEACE
     
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